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Ireland! part 3

September 17, 2009

Day 3

It rained a lot on day 3.  Unfortunately, rain + wind = no trip to the Skelligs.  I was bummed, but we decided that this would be a good reason to come back to Ireland again soon.

So we headed from Portmagee to Kenmare, stopping at the Staigue Ring Fort.  It was pouring rain at this point, and we both got soaked.

We ate lunch and shopped in Kenmare.  Kenmare is adorable!

After lunch, we again ventured into the rain – this time, we walked to a monolithic stone circle.  It was, quite literally, stones laid out in a circle (I don’t know what I was expecting – Stonehenge?).

It was not worth the 4 hours of wet jeans that I had to endure after viewing the circle.  Jason suggested that it was about as interesting as the piece of trash photographed below.  Sorry, stone age man! Not interested in your stones!

We stepped into Holy Cross Church for a minute… the church was finished in 1864, so it’s not really old by European standards, but it has these beautiful carved wooden angels holding up the ceiling.  It also gained bonus points by being dry inside.

From Kenmare, we drove Northeast to Killarney.  Rick Steves was an advocate for ignoring this touristy town, but we knew way too many people who reported liking Killarney to pass it up.  We stayed at the Sika Lodge, with cheery and chatty owner, James McEvoy on recommendation from J’s parents and aunt/uncle.  We arrived in time for a (self-guided) tour of nearby Ross Castle, dinner, and a little shopping, so after checking in, we hit the town!

Jason gives Ross Castle two thumbs up!

Killarney is another cute town, but it is totally and completely touristy (tour buses? check. unneccessarily expensive dinner? check. stores offering tax rebates to non-Europeans? check. people speaking American/German/etc/etc? check.).

After an overpriced dinner, we headed to Courtney’s and were pleasantly surprised to find that Courtney’s featured live music.  We managed to snag a table just in time for the festivities!  We sat and listened to traditional Irish music and drank Irish drinks (Bulmers for me, Guinness for J) for a few hours.  Courtney’s was one of our favorite pub stops on our trip!

5 Comments leave one →
  1. September 17, 2009 10:01 am

    we loved Ross castle too –
    and tried to avoid the tourist towns also –
    but sometimes it’s hard.
    I had to laugh at your comment about the manual/vs automatic car –
    My husband & I always have that “Discussion” – I want the
    automatic – he would rather save the $ – therefore- I don’t drive over there. He can deal w/ shifting & figuring out the “wrong” side of the rode.

    • September 17, 2009 10:36 am

      I would rather save the money (usually!), and initially, when I booked it said that automatic would be $600 more for the week and a half! Yikes! So I thought we’d at least attempt the manual. But when the man at the rental desk offered automatic for only $150 more, I jumped at it – and it was well worth it since J doesn’t really know how to drive manual and I haven’t driven manual in a few years!

  2. September 17, 2009 10:20 am

    lol…funny elizabeth! How did you plan your trip out? You really got to see quite a bit in 3 days so far!

    • September 17, 2009 10:39 am

      I picked up Rick Steves Guide to Ireland and read it, picking out the things that seemed most appealing to me. From there, I looked at plane tickets to see what would be most economical, and plotted a rough route. Then, I went on to find B&Bs (or took Rick’s advice on B&Bs). When we got there, we just sort of decided what we’d be doing based on the weather/how ambitious we were feeling. We skipped a few things I had planned, but added on some things that I hadn’t planned.


  1. happy St Patrick’s day! «

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